New to the UK

Exclusively imported by PWM!

The Hurricane and the Tornado – New and Innovative in the world of Dust Free Grinding and Cutting.

The Hurricane

The Tornado

 

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Converting a Dust Muzzle into a Crack Chaser

All Dust Muzzles are sold round and unaltered but they are easily converted into crack chasing and cutting tools with four easy steps. This allows the users to set the depth of cut to their own preference rather than to a pre-determined depth as is the case on dedicated crack chasing dust collectors.

The Dust Muzzle/Crack Chaser system can be used with a crack chasing wheel, a cutting wheel or a tuck pointing wheel.

The Dust Muzzle/Crack Chaser on a 4 ½” Makita grinder

Dust Muzzle Crack Chaser

The Dust Muzzle/Crack Chaser on a 7” Milwaukee grinder.

Dust Muzzle Crack Chaser

Installation Instructions

Step 1

Determine how much of your blade or crack chasing wheel you want to show outside the Dust Muzzle and make a mark on the Dust Muzzle. This will determine how deep your blade will cut.

Step 1

Step 2

Using either a stationary disc sander or a belt sander with 60 grit abrasive, grind off the nose of the Dust Muzzle to the marks you have made. When you have finished, there will be a flat spot on the Dust Muzzle.

Step 2

Step 2

Step 3

Attach the Dust Muzzle to the grinder with the hose clamp as per the instructions. Make sure the cover plate is trimmed to match the cut you have made on the Dust Muzzle. Snap the cover plate onto the Dust Muzzle and check that the blade or crack chaser is located in the center of the Dust Muzzle.

Step 3

Step 3

Step 4

Insert the step-down hose into the Dust Muzzle exhaust port and attach the large end of the hose to your vacuum hose.

You are now ready to begin dustless cutting and crack chasing and tuck pointing with the Dust Muzzle.

The Dust Muzzle/Crack chaser will also act as a depth-of-cut guide. If the Dust Muzzle is trimmed to show ½” of blade, it will cut no deeper than ½”.

Step 4

Tuck Pointing Crack Chasing Tool

Extra Information

 

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Adapting the Dust Muzzle to grind close to a wall

If an operator needs to do zero tolerance grinding, it is recommended that one grinder/Dust Muzzle combination, normally a grinder with a 7” diamond cup wheel, be dedicated to the field and a second grinder with a 4-5” wheel be dedicated to working around the edges.

In normal temperatures, the Dust Muzzle has enough flexibility to allow the operator to push the Dust Muzzle up against the wall so that only the .060” wall of the Dust Muzzle keeps him from going to zero tolerance.

If a true zero tolerance is needed, the Dust Muzzle can be easily modified so the operator can grind right up next to the wall.

Step 1

Step 1

Place a mark on the Dust Muzzle showing how much of the skirt of the Dust Muzzle needs to be removed so the wheel can touch the wall without having any of the Dust Muzzle interfering.

Step 2

Remove the Dust Muzzle from the Grinder and remove the unnecessary part of the Dust Muzzle skirt with a stationary grinder or belt sander using 60 grit paper.

Grind off the marked area

Grind off the marked area

Step 3

Re-install the Dust Muzzle.  You are now ready to grind with zero tolerance.

If dust is escaping from the cut off area of the Dust Muzzle skirt, it is possible that the vacuum has a dirty filter or does not have enough power. If this is the case, the efficiency of the Dust Muzzle can be increased by covering some or all of the vacuum relief holes on the top of the Dust Muzzle. This will cause more airflow to come through the opening in the skirt.

What it should look like when your done.

 

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Maximizing the efficiency of the Dust Muzzle

Maximizing the efficiency of the Dust Muzzle depends upon two things:

1) correct installation of the Dust Muzzle on your grinder

2) having a vacuum that is powerful enough to collect the dust.

For maximum efficiency, the Dust Muzzle should touch the work surface at the same time or slightly prior to the grinding wheel, thereby creating a face seal.  This is what the final installation should look like. Note that in this photo the wheel is slightly below the skirt of the Dust Muzzle.

Complete Dust Muzzle

Step 1

Measure the distance from the surface of the work to the top of the bearing housing of the grinder.

Step 1

Step 2

Add 1/8” to the measurement in Step 1 and make a corresponding mark on the fingers of the Dust Muzzle.

Step 2

Step 3

Trim the fingers of the Dust Muzzle with a scissors.

Step 3

Step 4

Attach the Dust Muzzle to your grinder with the hose clamp (supplied).

Step 4

Check that the Dust Muzzle is flat on the work surface and that you have a face seal with your work. Use the releasable cable tie (supplied) to attach the step-down hose to the handle or the power cord of your grinder. This will prevent the hose from pulling on the Dust Muzzle.

Complete Dust Muzzle

Vacuums

There are many excellent vacuums on the market. Your vacuum will have enough power to efficiently collect the dust from a Dust Muzzle if it has the following specifications.

1. A 2hp motor (12 amps continuous)

2. 80” or more static lift

3. 120 cfm (cubic feet per minute) airflow.

For the less expensive models of vacuum, it is essential that they have a disposable filter bag. This is the type of bag that collects the dust and is then disposed of like the systems that are typically used for residences.

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A Primer on Vacuums

We get asked this quite alot, “which vacuum is best for me?”

There are three important things to look for in a vacuum: CFM, static lift and filtration.

CFM

CFM is an abbreviation for cubic feet per minute. This is a measure of the volume of air the vacuum is moving. Most vacuums move enough air to work with point of origin dust collectors…at least for a few minutes. But on weak vacuums, when the filters start to load up, the CFM begins to drop.

Static Lift

Whereas CFM measures the volume of air moved, static lift measures the ability to keep the air moving under a load. Static lift is measured in inches. It can be equated to torque on a motor. If a vacuum has 80” of lift, it means it can lift a column of water 80” off the ground.

When a filter is loaded up with fine dust, it becomes more difficult to pull air through the pores. A vacuum that delivers 120CFM with 90” of lift will continue to pull a large volume of air through the filter whereas a vacuum that delivers 120CFM with 40” of lift will tend to see a substantial drop in the CFM pulled through the hose. This will result in a loss of efficiency for the dust collector.

Filtration

There are many types of good filtration systems. They run from pulse type back flush systems to paper and plastic disposable filters.

The most cost effective systems for the lower priced vacuum systems use a disposable paper or woven plastic filter. They typically hold 5-20 pounds of silica dust. They filter down to .5 microns which is close to the HEPA (High Efficiency Particle Absorbing) spec of .3 microns. When they are full of dust, they are removed from the vacuum and thrown away. They are typically used with a secondary filter that protects the motor and a HEPA downstream filter to remove particles from the exhaust.

Filter systems with poor performance are the pleated filters similar to the air filter on a carburetor or a pleated filter with a flannel bag overcoat. They tend to clog easily, choking down airflow. They are often found on home type garage vacuums that are designed for picking up leaves, dirt and large sawdust. They are generally not suitable for silica, asbestos or fiberglass dust.

In addition to CFM, lift and filtration, the operator should also be aware of how the vacuum is constructed and the true power of the motor.

A bypass motor is always the best design. With this design, the dust is not brought through the motor, thereby prolonging motor life, particularly the brushes and armature. If the vacuum is not equipped with a bypass motor, be sure it has a secondary filter downstream of the disposable filter to further protect the motor in case the disposable bag filter fails.

Lastly, be sure you know how to read the power of the motor. Many vacuums are advertised as 5hp motors. Closer examination will show the fine print to read 5hp at peak power. This is deceptive. All motors draw very high amperage for a few milliseconds upon starting. In almost all cases, the vacuums advertising 5 or 6 hp are actually drawing 30-36 amps on startup after which they settle down to 6 amps. These are really 1 hp motors.

Power in an electric is rated at 1 hp per 6 amps. If a 110/120V motor draws 12 amps continuously, it is a true 2 hp motor.
What is need to run Dust Collection Products dust collectors.

The Dust Muzzles, Crack Chasers and Saw Muzzle for the 7” worm drive saws will be very efficient if they have a steady 80 CFM of airflow through the exhaust port. This airflow can be well maintained if the vacuum has at least 80” of static lift.

The Saw Muzzle GP for the gas-powered saws runs best with a steady 110 CFM and at least 80” of static lift.

The TV50 is a very strong, industrial vacuum that is capable of running all the Dust Collection products including the Saw Muzzle for Gas-Powered saws at over 95% efficiency.

TV50 Vacuum, for hand held grinders.

 

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